Eritrea is a small young African nation that has beaten the odds not only in fighting its way to independence, but also in re-building despite extreme economic limitations. The re-creation of its steam railway is symbolic of the transformation of the country. The railway system had been completely destroyed during a 30 year long war with Ethiopia. It was eventually rebuilt despite lack of any substantial economic funds, but instead by sheer dedication and enthusiasm. Much of the work was done by retired rail workers who came back to work, some in their 80s and 90s to help in the cause. The country still has many challenges to deal with: A serious border dispute with its larger southern neighbor and previous occupier Ethiopia, a constitution that still remains to be implemented, and significant economic problems.
As a heritage from the time Eritrea was under Italian rule the capital Asmara still has Art Deco buildings painted in soft peaches, blues and creams. The city was designed by Mussolini’s architects as a bold experiment in 1930s Modernism. One of the most famous buildings from that era is the Fiat Tagliero garage, built by the architect Giuseppe Pettazzi in 1938 as a workshop and service station. Also other signs of Italian cultural influence has survived like espresso coffee and pastries.
Paddy Magrane visited Asmara and wrote an interesting article for The Observer. Also check out an article written for The New York Times by Binyavanga Wainaina based on experiences from a recent trip. And Hans van der Splinter of the Netherlands whose wife is Eritrean has created an impressive web page with lots of information about Eritrea. The Guardian has a photo gallery with interesting pictures from Asmara and Massawa.
The Observer
The New York Times
Eritrea – Adventure and Hospitality